Frequently Asked Questions

The cost varies widely based on size, pitch, material, and location. An average asphalt shingle replacement might range from $400 to $600 per square installed. Metal or tile roofs will be significantly higher. Use our calculator page for a rough estimate.

An average residential roof removal and replacement usually takes 1 to 3 days, depending on the complexity of the roof and the weather. Larger homes or commercial projects may take longer.

Re-roofing involves placing new shingles over existing ones. A tear-off involves removing all old roofing material down to the deck. Tear-offs are superior because they allow for deck inspection and replacement of underlayment and flashings.

Professional roofers monitor the weather closely. If rain is expected, they will tarp exposed areas securely to make the roof watertight. They will not tear off more than they can cover or replace in a day if rain is a threat.

You generally do not need to be home, but it helps to be available by phone in case decisions need to be made about unexpected rot or structural issues. Keep pets and children inside or away from the work zone for safety.

Yes, a professional cleanup is part of the job. Crews usually use a dumpster for old shingles and run large magnets over the lawn and driveway to pick up stray nails. Always confirm cleanup procedures in your contract.

There are two types: Manufacturer warranties cover defects in the roofing material (typically 25 years to lifetime), while Contractor warranties cover the workmanship/installation (typically 2 to 10 years).

It is often convenient and cost-effective to replace gutters at the same time, especially if they are old or damaged. The roof installation process exposes the eaves, making it a good time to upgrade to seamless gutters.

Clear vehicles from the driveway to allow dumpster access. Remove loose items from walls and shelves (vibrations may knock them down). Cover items in the attic to protect from dust. Notify neighbors of the expected noise.

Look for water spots (rings) on ceilings, peeling paint, damp spots along fireplaces, or water finding its way into your attic. Externally, look for damaged flashing or missing shingles.

Roof work is dangerous. While minor repairs (like caulking a small gap) are possible for a handy homeowner, finding the source of a leak can be difficult. Professional repairs ensure the leak is fixed correctly and safely.

Ice dams form when attic heat melts snow on the roof, which refreezes at the eaves. The best prevention is proper attic insulation and ventilation to keep the roof deck cold, preventing the snow from melting unevenly.

Some granule loss is normal for new roofs. However, on older roofs, excessive granules in gutters indicate the shingles are nearing the end of their life and the asphalt core is becoming exposed to the sun.

Moss traps moisture and damages shingles. You can use a moss killer solution (often zinc or copper based) or have professional soft-washing performed. Avoid pressure washing, which can strip protective granules.

Evacuate if there is structural damage or danger. Call emergency services if lines are down. Call your insurance company immediately, then contact a roofer to perform emergency tarping to prevent water damage.

Gutters should be cleaned at least twice a year: once in late spring and once in late fall. Clogged gutters can cause water to back up under the roof edge, rotting the fascia and decking.

High winds can lift shingles, especially if the sealant strip has failed or they were improperly nailed. If you find shingles in your yard, contact a roofer for an inspection immediately to cover the exposed wood.

Flashing is metal material installed at joints and valleys (like around chimneys, vents, and walls) to prevent water intrusion. Damaged flashing is one of the most common causes of roof leaks.

Pros: Affordable, widely available, easy to repair, good fire resistance. Cons: Shorter lifespan (20-25 years) compared to metal/tile, prone to wind lift if not properly sealed, can crack in extreme temperature fluctuations.

Metal roofs last 2-3 times longer than asphalt (50+ years), are energy efficient, and highly durable against wind and fire. While the upfront cost is higher, the long-term value and low maintenance often make it worth the investment.

Slate is one of the longest-lasting roofing materials, often exceeding 100 years. It is fireproof and environmentally friendly but is very heavy and requires a reinforced roof structure and specialized installation.

Slate, clay tile, and metal (copper/zinc/steel) are considered the most durable. They resist rot, insects, and fire better than wood or asphalt. Synthetic slate/shake is also gaining popularity for durability.

Yes. Metal roofs are often made from recycled materials and are recyclable at end-of-life. "Cool roofs" reflect heat. Green roofs (living roofs) provide insulation. Solar shingles generate power while protecting the home.

Yes, when replacing your roof, you can choose any color available in your chosen material. Painting an existing asphalt roof is generally not recommended as it requires specialized coatings and maintenance.

3-tab shingles are flat with a uniform look and lower wind rating. Architectural (dimensional) shingles are thicker, have a layered look that mimics wood shake, last longer, and have higher wind warranties.

Generally, yes. Light-colored roofs reflect more sunlight (solar reflectance), which reduces heat transfer into the attic. This is especially beneficial in hot, sunny climates.

Synthetic underlayment is now preferred over traditional felt paper. It is lighter, stronger, water-resistant, and safer for roofers to walk on. Ice and water shield (self-adhering) is critical in valleys and eaves.

Insurance typically covers roof replacement if the damage is sudden and accidental, such as from wind, hail, or a falling tree. It does not cover normal wear and tear or age-related failure.

Document the damage with photos (from the ground if possible), get an inspection from a reputable roofer, and then contact your insurance agent. Your roofer can often meet with the adjuster to ensure all damage is noted.

A manufacturer warranty covers the product itself (e.g., shingle defects). A workmanship warranty is provided by the contractor and covers errors in installation. You need both for complete protection.

It depends on your policy and state laws. Often, "act of God" claims (hail/wind) do not directly increase your specific rate, but rates may rise for the entire area after a major storm event.

A pro-rated warranty loses value over time. For example, if a 20-year roof fails in year 15, the warranty might only pay a small fraction of the replacement cost. Non-prorated warranties offer full coverage for a set period.

Many high-quality warranties are transferable one time to a new homeowner, which can be a selling point. However, you often must notify the manufacturer within a specific window (e.g., 60 days) of the sale.

Common voiding factors include: improper ventilation (cooking the shingles), installing over too many old layers, adding after-market fixtures (dishes/skylights) improperly, or pressure washing the roof.

If you plan to stay in the home for a long time, an extended warranty from a certified installer (covering both labor and materials for 50 years) is often worth the investment for peace of mind.

You are responsible for paying your deductible. If your claim is $10,000 and your deductible is $1,000, the insurance pays $9,000. Beware of contractors offering to "pay your deductible," as this is often insurance fraud.